Chosen Solution
My battery is stck inside and I cant get it out, any tips or tricks. I already tried tape and stucky stuff to try to pull it out, but its in there good. Im wondering if there is a way to take it apart
Check to see if it’s swollen; the D5300 is old enough this is enough of a concern enough I would pull any battery over 5 years out of service as a precaution as it leads to this problem. Yeah, my rule for cameras is brutal: New: 3 years have a new battery ready at all times/5 end of service (recycle w/ 5Y note). Ex: If I bought a full frame Sony mirrorless camera to properly use my Minolta glass and the LA-EA adapter in 2023, I would consider it “due” for a new pack in 2025 but run the old pack as a reliable backup until 2025-2026, depending on wear.Used camera w/ battery: Shoot with it immediately but note that body needs 2 new batteries (“Replace ASAP”), no exceptions. When I’m shopping, I will buy 2 (1 run primary, 2nd backup). Any used packs will be run as long as I trust them. I treat these as “consumed” to avoid this exact problem, and a lot of the times the cameras I go for are older (ex: if the T8i is the current “i” Canon DSLR, I will get a T3i if the offer matches the age). I may not buy it on a shoot, but if the Best Buy is nearby after I’m buying 2 new ones. Even then, I’ve noticed the original packs tend to be “well loved” and not near the end, BUT you can tell. You might as well put a new one in service.Jumped unregulated (emergency fix): 1 year replacement/3-year max service (Ex: 9V/AA or AAA holder). See why in the jumped pack note. The reason for this wide gap? For used cameras, I don’t know the age of it and most people do not weigh the risk of expansion vs. the time wasted on hacks like this, it’s about runtime issues. As such, it’s easier to consider it “consumed” and buy new ones before it becomes a problem (but use it as long as it holds a charge safely as a non-production pack)!NOTE: For jumped packs, these can be a liability once it’s done (even once) to a point I will do it in a jam and only for 5-15 minutes max and go back to the “correct” charger – accepting it does some pack damage. If it fails, pack is EOL.These get the toughest replace by deadlines, even if I get criticized for distrusting these and being so particular. It’s usually because they had to wait an additional 5 minutes for me, but don’t understand the reason is I’m not inviting problems with many using softcell bare packs on a BMS. If it is, what you may be able to do (with caution!) is stick a thin tool with removable adhesive on it (permanent is fine, as you will scrap the battery). PULL THE CAMERA FROM SERVICE UNTIL THIS PACK IS REPLACED! DO NOT REUSE IT! Out of service>permanently attached card.A cut plastic card (like a spent gift card) should be enough, so avoid metal at ALL costs unless you run out of options. You also want to avoid the SD card slot area, if it’s anything like the Canon DSLRs where they’re both there. This is an EXCELLENT EXAMPLE why I discard used batteries:
Both are from 2014 so likely original to the camera and one of them is either a Koren import, or a certified knockoff meant to pass as a Canon battery. Nope nope nope, they’re already from 2014 AND one is suspicious. Now yes, I may need to keep these for the return period but once that’s over I can discard them without consequence. I may run the 2014 real pack until it’s too old, but I will not be using that knockoff.
I’m assuming that you’ve moved the retaining clip to the side. Have you done this with the camera held as you would be shooting? This would allow gravity to let the battery to fall out. You may try giving the camera a sharp thump with your free hand with the camera upright so the battery can fall out. Again, make sure the retaining clip is out of the way first. Try this video.
