Chosen Solution
I have a Klipsch pro media 2.1 THX that I have hooked up to my pc. One day I was playing music at some loud volumes and it just shut off out of the blue and now I can’t get anymore sound from the speaker or sub. This has happened before when it would get overheated , then I’d turn the volume down for a while it would come back on. Did I blow a speaker or the amp in the sub blow? Can it be fixed and is it even worth it to repair if that’s what the problem is?
Hi, Is the power light showing that it is on? Here’s a link to the schematics for a Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 system. I cannot find out what the difference is between this model and your model Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX. Hopefully it isn’t much and that the schematics are still relevant. First disconnect the power and then open it up and check for anything that is obviously damaged such as burnt out or heat stressed components etc. If there are any then you can use the schematics to determine what the component is if it is burnt beyond recognition and also why it burnt out, unless it was component failure of course.. If there is nothing obvious then check that the power board is supplying all the voltages required for the system i.e. +/-14V, +/-26V and +/-50V. If they are all present after that you will delve further into the amplifier sections to determine what the problem is. Hopefully a start. Update (02/18/2020) Hi, The green power light “power supply” is the +/-14V DC supply derived from the +/-26V DC HF power rails. Look at the Power supply circuit at the very bottom pf the page you will see the AC supply voltage comes in through a switch and then through a fuse 2A-250 and into the primary side of the power transformer. Even though your house power supply is 120V AC there is still a 2 Amp 250V rated fuse in the input. With the mains power totally disconnected from the speakers use an Ohmmeter to check if the fuse is blown. If it is a see through “glass tube” type fuse it will be easy to see if it has blown or not. If it has blown (and you can see into the fuse) check if most of the fuse wire is still there and is just broken as opposed to the fuse wire having totally disappeared. If most of it is still there and there is only a small break in the wire, then perhaps it may have just fatigued from being used at the upper end of its’ current rating over a long period of time. This means it gets hot in use, then cools when the speaker is off, then hot, then cools etc and eventually the wire weakens and breaks. If this is the case replacing the fuse may be all that is necessary. If the fuse wire has totally disappeared this indicates that there is a fault in the unit which has caused excessive current to flow through the fuse. Further testing would be required to find the component that has failed and caused the fuse to blow. If you cannot see “through” the fuse because it has a non see through construction then you may have to take a gamble and replace it and see what happens. Buy 2 or 3 replacement fuses just in case If the fuse is OK, you need to check if there is +/-26V DC appearing at the +V_HF (connector P106-1) and -V_HF (connector P106-3). You will see on the power supply circuit that these voltages are used to derive the +/-14V DC voltages that are necessary for the LED power light to turn on (see Control Pod circuit and find component D405 GRN- this is the green power light). Basically as I said earlier you have to make sure that the power supply is supplying all the necessary voltage supplies and if not find out why not. At least you have the schematics to help
most likely you have a new version of this unit, use this schematic , go down to the SMPS part diagram. check R7 100K ohms resister. must be bad. more often if R7 is bad the power ic controller in the daughterboard is blown as well. replace it, the part number is IR21531S
